To separate the flax fiber from
the plant stem of flax is called Retting. Retting is four types. They are:
- Dam retting.
- Water retting.
- Dew retting.
- Chemical retting.
Functionality of monomer
Functionally monomer plays a good role to form by the
monomer. The size of polymer is also related to monomer. If many monomers add
with each other they produce a big polymer. The molecular weight of
- Polymer is forming by the adding of monomer.
- Monomer gives the size of a polymer.
- Molecular weight of a polymer is related to monomer.
Flax
Production region of Flax: Flax
is cultivated on a commercial scale in Belgium,
Holland, England,
Russia and Ireland. Also
cultivated in Canada, U.S.A. and Argentina.
Degree of Polymerization
Degree of polymerization means
the number of repeat unit of a polymer molecule for instance if there are 1000
repeat units in polymer molecule. So the degree of polymerization (D.P) is
1000.
Chemical Properties of Jute Fiber
Chemical properties of Jute Fibers are:
- Effect of acids and alkalis: Easily damaged by hot and cold concentrated acids but resistant to alkali.
- Effect of bleaching agent: Not effected by oxidizing and reducing agent.
- Effect of organic solvent: Resistance to organic solvent.
- Dye ability: Jute fiber has good affinity to basic dye.
- Effect of sun light: Due to presence of lignin in jute fiber it may be damaged by sun light.
- Flammability: its flammability may be reduced by treating with boras and boric acid mixture.
- Effect of microorganism: Jute has more resistance to microbiological attack than either grey cotton or flax.
Yarn Characteristics
Yarn characteristics exert a
distinct effect on pilling, the details of while are described below:
Types of Commercial Cotton
Types of commercial cotton
1. Sea Island cotton: This is the
highest quality and the most valuable of all the commercial cotton. It grows on
the coast of the Gulf of Florida in Barbados and in other adjacent
island where the climate is favorable.
Identification of cotton fiber
1. Burn Test: The burn test is a
quick way to determine the cotton fiber. A few threads from the fiber is moved slowly
to the flame of the burner and then into it. Where it is watched carefully.
Then the sample is removed from the flame still watching it. The fiber sample
is evaluated considering the following point.
Faults and impurities of Cotton
Faults and impurities of cotton
- Neps: Neps are small groups of entangled fibers which formal cotton processing. In spinning neps are difficult to eliminate or to comb. It creates problem during textile processing.
- Coils: Slightly roped groups of fiber. Mainly short fiber dead fiber, and ill fiber are formed this type of fault.
- Trash: Mainly bits of leave, bail, parts, stems etc.
- Motes: Small and immature seeds and their fragments.
Drape
Drape is the ability of a fabric to assume a graceful
appearance in use.
It is an important property of textile materials which
allows fabric into a graceful folds or pleats. A fabric is said to possess good
drape ability when its configuration is pleasant to the eye.
Fabric Handle
Fabric handle as the name itself implies, is concerned with
feel of the material and so depends upon the sense of touch. Different types of
material will have different degree of smoothness or roughness when the fabric
handle is to be judges the sensation for stiffness or hardness or softness,
roughness or smoothness are all made use of.
Effect of Pilling
Pilling rarely affects the actual
durability of a fabric but it affects adversely in processing as well as to
physical properties of the fabric like appearance, handles etc which are
shortly described as below:
Wash Fastness
The properties to stain the color
on the surface of textile materials during washing is called washing fastness.
Color Fastness
Color Fastness is a resisting property
of textile materials. To resist the color loosing or reducing from the textile
material surface during different mechanical, physical and chemical treatment
is called color fastness.
Physical Structure of Cotton Fiber
Physical
Structure of Cotton Fiber:
i. Cuticle: The
cuticle is the out side layer or the skin of the cotton fiber, which contains
some cellulose but accompanied by fat and waxes.
ii. Primary wall: Under the cuticle is the primary cell
wall composed of criss-crossed cellulose and also contains some pectin’s. The
criss-cross pattern of cellulose confers peri-pherical strength of fiber.
iii. Secondary wall: The secondary wall constitutes the
bulk of the cellulose component, which lies between the primary wall and lumen
of the fiber. The secondary wall of a matured fiber is practically pure
cellulose and probably represents about 90% of the fiber weight. It is composed
of two layers. S1 and S2 with a thickness of about 100nm.
iv. Lumen: The innermost part of cotton fiber is a hollow
cannel running the length of the fiber. It contains proteins, coloring matter
and mineral deposited on its walls. Depending on the maturity of the fiber. The
lumen varies in dimension over a range. Mature fiber may have so heavy
deposition of cellulose in the secondary wall which results in developing the
fiber. So fully as to leave a very little lumen at all. On the other hand an
immature fiber may contains so little secondary cellulose that the lumen is
wids and distinct.
Chemical Properties of Cotton Fiber
Chemical properties of cotton
fiber:
1. Effect of acid: Cotton is attack by hot dilute acids or
cold concentrated acids in which it disintegrates. It is not affected by cold
weak acids.
2. Effect of alkali: To alkali there is an excellent
resistance for Cotton. Cotton swells on caustic alkali's but it never damaged.
3. Effect of solvent: There are very few solvent that will
dissolve cotton completely. It has a high resistance to normal solvents but is
dispersed by the copper complexes cuprammonium hydroxide and cupriethelene
diamine and by concentrated H2SO4 (70%).
4. Action of microorganism: Cotton fibers can resist moths
and most insects but it can be attacked by fungi and bacteria.
5. Action of water: Water, which is very strong polar in
nature, easily attacked by the polar –OH group of the cotton fiber. So that
water is able to penetrate into the cellulose network of the cotton fiber. This
water absorption causes swelling of the fiber.
6. Effect of temperature: Cotton fiber shows an excellent
resistance to thermal decomposition. Prolonged heating at 100ºC shows the
cotton no visible change heat at 120ºC for several hours shows the cotton
little or no change in strength. But begin to turn yellow gradually. Cotton
decomposes markedly at 150ºC.
Work Study
Work Study is the analysis of
operations required to produce a specific product. Say for example: a style of
a garment.
Work Study is determined as the
synthetic, objective, critical and imaginative examination of all factors
governing the operational efficiency of any specific production activity in
order to achieve improvements.
Physical Properties of Cotton Fiber
Physical properties of cotton
fiber:
1. Length and width: Cotton is the shortest natural fiber
used in commercially in the textile industry ranging from 0.5-2.5 inches in
length. The width of typical cotton fiber may vary between 12 to 20 microns.
2. Shape: A typical matured raw cotton fiber looks like a
flattened tube and the cross section are oval or kidney shape.
3. Strength: Cotton is a moderately strong fiber. Tenacity
of cotton fiber is 26.5-44 CN/Tex and extension at break is about 8-10%.
4. Elasticity: Cotton is relatively less elastic fiber. At
2% extension it has an elastic recovery of 74% at 5% extension the elastic
recovery is only 45%.
5. Porosity: Cotton fiber is somewhat porous and
consequently it absorbs moisture readily.
6. Moisture regains: Cotton has a moisture regain of 8.5%.
At 100% humidity, cotton has an absorbency of 25-27%.
7. Color: Normally the color of cotton is creamy white.
8. Handle: Cotton is naturally very soft and comfortable
that is why it is particularly favored for garments that get close to the skin.
9. Luster: Cotton fibers have a natural luster which is
due to the natural polish on the surface and it’s nearly circular cross
sectional shape.
Distinguish Warp and Weft
Direction of the fabric
determines the way in which the fabric should be cut when a garment is made
from it.
Cellulosic FIber
The fibers which consist completely or to a large part of
cellulose is called cellulosic fiber. Cellulose is a long chain of linked sugar
molecules and the simplest formula for cellulose is written (C6H10O5)n,
when n is the polymerization factor.
Yarn Number
It refers to the yarn size or
fineness of the yarn. Filament yarn is expressed in terms of weight per unit
length. Whereas for spun yarns the precise weights and lengths differ according
to the fiber in the yarn. There are various kinds of systems measuring the yarn
size.
Plain Weave
Plain weave is the most simplest
weave which have most basic interlacing. Every weft yarn or thread goes over a
warp thread or yarn and then under a warp yarn. Plain weave gives a firm and
flat structure this is ideal for finishes like printing.
What is Textile
Textile is a very widely used
term which included all kinds of fiber ( Jute, Cotton, Wool, Silk, Ramie, Hemp
etc.), all kinds of process ( Knitting, weaving etc.), all kinds of machinery,
To convert the textile fiber into a finished product for end use such as
garments, furnishing materials etc.
According to Wikipedia, "A Textile or Cloth is a
flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres. Yarn
is produced by spinning raw fibres of wool, flax, cotton, hemp or other
material to produce long strands. Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting,
crocheting, knotting or felting.
Textile Fiber
Tension Device
Tension device maintains a proper tension to achieve a
uniform package density.
Requirements of tension device:
- It must not change yarn twist.
- It must not damage the yarn.
- It must be cheap.
- It must be easily adjustable.
- To operating surface must be smooth.
Precision Winding
To produce a very dense package
in which maximum number of yarn in a given volume which is stored is known as
precision winding.
Near Parallel Winding
This package contains only one
yarn and yarn is wound near parallel. Layers contain continuous inner side of
the package.
Classification of Knitting Machine
Knitting machine mainly two types. They are:
- Weft Knitting Machine.
- Warp Knitting Machine.
Auxiliary Function in Winding
The auxiliary function may be formed automatically or
manually the auxiliary function include.
Knitted Fabric
Mainly knitted fabrics are two types. They are:
- Warp knitted fabric.
- Weft knitted fabric.
Warp Knitted fabric: The structure of warp knitted each loop
in vertical direction which is made from different threads and to the number of
loops in horizontal row which the number of thread used to produce such a
fabric at least.
Weft knitted fabric: The structure of weft knitted the loops
of horizontal row which is made by using thread run or one thread in horizontal
direction.
Properties
of Knitted Fabrics:
1. No dimensional stability.
- It has higher elastic property.
- Comfortable to put on.
- It has high extensibility and recovery property.
- Less labor cost is needed to knit the fabric.
- Finishing is advantageous in knitted fabric.
- It is very soft.
- Ironing is not necessary.
- Fold is not created in the fabric.
Knitting
It is a process to produce a fabric by set of connected
loops from a series of yarn in warp or weft direction is known as Knitting.
Sizing
Sizing
is a process to applying a protective adhesive coating upon the surface of
yarns which is known as Sizing.
Warping
To wind the yarn from cheese package or cone packages under
parallel condition on to a warp beam is termed as Warping.
Latch Needle
Latch Needle is two types. They are:
1. Friction
latch needle.
2. Friction
less latch needle.
Sulphur Dye
To containing sulphur linkage
in their molecular structure that’s why they are called Sulphur dyes.
Dye-S-S-Dye
Azoic Dye
Azoic Dye is not ready-made but this Azoic Dye is produced by the reaction of two
components. These are di-azo components and naphthol.
Color Fastness
It refers to resistance of color of a dyed material to
different influences like wash, perspiration, light rubbing, acid, alkali etc.
Mixing
To kept different grades of
small fibers are together is known as mixing. Example: 60% of 1.15inch staplelength of cotton + 60% of 1.35inch staple length of cotton.
Grading
The classification of fibers according to their physical
characteristics such as strength, maturity, length, trash-content, fineness etc
is known as Grading. Different countries have many different Grading for
Cotton. Such as:
SCI
SCI means Spinning Consistency
Index. SCI is a calculation for predicting the overall quality and spin ability
of the cotton fiber. The regression equation uses most of the individual HVI
measurements, and is based on the data taken from United States Department of Agriculture's (USDA) annual crop reports.
Fiber Strength
Fiber Strength is very often the
dominating characteristics. This can be seen from the fact that the nature
produces counties fibers, most of which are not usable for textiles because of
inadequate strength. The minimum strength for a textile fiber is approximately
6 CN/tex.
Fiber Maturity
Cotton Fiber consists of lumen
and cell wall. The maturity index is depends upon the thickness of the cell
wall. A fiber is to be considered as ripe when the cell wall of the moisture
swollen fiber represents 50-80% of the round cross-section, as unripe when it
represents 30-45%, and as dead when it represents less than 25%.
Fiber Color
Fiber Color is particularly important
as a measure of how well a yarn or fabric will dye or bleached. Instrumental
techniques for determining the color of the sample have only now reached the
industry, HVI measurements of color provides reasonably accurate results of
average reflectance and yellowness in a sample. Fiber Elongation
Elongation is specified as a
percentage of the starting length. The elastic elongation is of decisive
importance since textile products without elasticity would hardly be useable.
They must be able to deform and also return to shape. The fiber elongation
should therefore be at least 1-2% and preferably slightly more.Staple Length
The average length of a spinnable fiber is called Staple
Length. Staple length is also most important fiber characteristics.
MIC Value
Weight of the fiber per inch is termed as MIC value. The
higher micronaire value the fiber regarded as coarser.
Fiber Fineness
Fiber Fineness is one the most
important fiber characteristics. The Fiber Fineness determines how many fibers are
present in the cross-section of a yarn of given thickness. Minimum thirty fibers
are needed in the yarn cross-section but there are usually hundred. For almost
all new spinning process one hundred is approximately the lower limit. Fiber Fineness
is measured in micronaire value (MIC).
Bale Management
Bale Management is a process to
mix fiber homogeneously to get consistent production and quality of yarn and
inventory control and selection of fibers according to its properties.
According to the fiber characteristics Bale Management refers to a choice of
cotton bales in order to achieve acceptable and a constant yarn quality and
economical processing conditions.
Cleaning
Cleaning is the most important
basic operation for textile industry and it will become more important and
steadily. The main aim of cleaning is to remove the impurities from the fibers
and necessary to release the adhesion and to give to particles and opportunity
to separate from the stock. By picking of flocks out of the feed material this
is mostly achieved. Dirt, dust, neps and foreign matter should be eliminated.
Opening
To carrying out the basic
operation of spinning, Opening is needed. The raw materials enter the spinning
mill in highly pressed from to enable optimum transport and storage condition
to be used. Thus Opening must precede the basic operation.
Pattern
Pattern
is a hard paper where different components of garments are sketched according
to their measurement which is known as Pattern. Pattern can be sketched by
ornamental or decorative elements. Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)
A short note on ETP:
To save the
environment of Textile industry by using Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP). From
different section of Textile manufacturing unit, a lot of water comes which are
really very harmful and dangerous for the nature and environment. Effluent Treatment Plant is very
essential part of Textile industry. There are some basic steps of Effluent
Treatment Plant. The steps are:
Fineness
In weight per unit length or length per unit weight the fiber Fineness can be expressed. According to Textile Institute the fineness of cotton, silk and manufactured fibers are usually expressed in term of average linear density. Every single fiber has variable cross-section along its length. And every single fiber can be varies in cross-section shape from fiber to fiber.
Yarn Count
Yarn
count is the numerical expression which indicates or expressed the fineness or
coarseness of yarn. According to Textile Institute, Count a number indicating
the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn. Yarn count can be
described into two systems:
Auto Levelling
Draw frame is the best sliver
regularity. By the use of servo motor draft is controlled in drawing for
constant count. Controlling draft by servo motor of this program is called Auto
Levelling. Auto Levelling is done by two ways.
Drafting Wave
The irregular motion of short fibers, wave like formation in the sliver between pairs of roller is called Drafting Wave. The main causes of Drafting Wave are:
Silk
Silk
is a protein fiber like as Wool. Silk is not a staple fiber but it is an animal
fiber. Silk is a thread like form which is known as filament. Silk production
is known as sericulture. Bombay Mori is the most common cultivated which is one
used for sericulture.Hemp
Like
as flax, Hemp is also a bast fiber. Almost every European Country and few Asian
country the Hemp is now cultivated. Mainly Hemp is cultivated in Hungary, Rumania, and Soviet Union etc.Ramie
Ramie
is a bast fiber. Another name of Ramie is China Grass. Now a days Ramie
produced mainly in South America, Korea, Merchandising
From the word Merchandise,
Merchandising is come. Merchandising is the planning development and
presentation of product line for identified target market with regards to
prices, assortments, styling and timing.
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