Winding Principle of Simplex

There are two winding principle of simplex. They are,

1. In simplex the bobbin speed must be higher than the flyer speed for winding.

   If the flyer speed is N_F and bobbin speed is N_B. They according to the principle:

N_B>N_F

So, winding on speed = N_B-N_F

                              Then, N_W=N_B-N_F…………(i).

2. If the diameter increases due to winding, then the bobbin speed must be decreased.

Let, the delivery speed = L inch per minute.

At any instant, the bobbin dia = d inch.

Then the winding speed, N_W = (L/πd)…………(ii).

Now, from the equation (i) and (ii) we get,

N_B-N_F = (L/πd).

            Then, L = πd (N_B-N_F).

Building Mechanism of Winding: There are three important tasks are occurred for building on a package,

1. Bobbin speed must be decreased due to winding in each layer.
2. Lifting the bobbin rail for stable.
3. Shorten the lifting of bobbin rail for tapper end.

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Water Repellent and Water Proof Finishes

Certain end use of textiles such as umbrella cloth, swim suit, sports wear, rain coat, tarpaulin etc. need water repellency or water proofing.

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Fabric Consumption of a Basic Woven Shirt

Measurement required:

1. Body length (HSP) = 75cm.
2. ½ Chest= 55cm.
3. Sleeve length= 65cm.
4. Arm hole (Straight) = 25cm.
5. Collar length= 41cm.
6. Collar width= 6cm.
7. Collar band length= 32cm.
8. Collar band width= 2cm.
9. Pocket length= 14cm.
10. Pocket width= 12cm.
11. Extra yoke length= 48cm.
12. Extra yoke height= 11.5cm.
13. Fabric width= 56inch.
14. Wastage= 5%.

Body Section:

A= (Body length + Allowance) × (½ chest + Allowance) × 2

   = (75+5) × (55+6) × 2 sq.cm.

   = 9760 sq.cm.

Sleeve Section:

B= (Sleeve length + Allowance) × (Arm hole + Allowance) ×2×2

   = (65+4) × (25+) ×4 sq.cm.

   =8280 sq.cm.

Collar Section:

C= (Collar length+ Allowance) × (Collar width+ Allowance) ×2

   = (41+4) × (6+2) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 720 sq.cm.

Collar Band Section:

D= (Collar band length+ Allowance) × (Collar band width+ Allowance) ×2

   = (32+3) × (2+2) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 280 sq.cm.

Pocket Section:

E= (Pocket length+ Allowance) × (Pocket width+ Allowance)

   = (14+2) ×(12+1) sq.cm.

   = 208 sq.cm.

Extra Yoke Section:

F= (Yoke length+ Allowance) ×( Yoke height+ Allowance) ×2

   = (48+4) × (11.5+3) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 108 sq.cm.

Total Fabric Consumption = A+B+C+D+E+F

     = 9760+8280+720+280+208+1508

     = 20756 sq.cm.

Now divided this amount by (2.54)2, then we will get 3217.18 sq.inch.

So, Total Fabric Required = (3217.18/56) inch.

                                           = (57.45/36) yards.

                                           = 1.6yards.

So, Fabric Consumption per dozen= 1.6× 12 +5% OLF

                                                        = (19.2+ 0.96) Yards.

                                                        = 20.16 yards.

Fabric Price per Yards is = $2.5

So, Fabric Cost = $2.5× 20.16

                          = $ 50.4

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Thread Consumption of Basic Woven Shirt

In textile industry there are different types of sewing machines. Each machine never needs fixed amount thread to stitch. Different types of stitch need different amount of thread. Explain below,

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Water

Water is a transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid.  It is a chemical compound consisting of two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen. The name water typically refers to the liquid state of the compound. The solid phase is known as ice and gas phase is called steam. Water contains 11.188 percent hydrogen and 88.812 percent oxygen, by weight. It’s freezing at 32°F or 0°C and boiling at 212°F or 100°C.

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Weft Preparation

By means of a shuttle carrying a bobbin the filling yarn is inserted on a conventional loom. At the end the bobbin should be tapered. For that the yarn may be pulled without interruption through the eye of the shuttle as the shuttle travels from one side of the loom to the other.

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Weaving

To manufacture the textile fabrics, weaving is the most popular method which is widely used. Two or more sets of yarns are interlaced with one another at the right angle. In the lengthwise direction the warp yarns are run and this is also called ends. And the weft yarns are run in the clockwise direction and this is also known as picks.

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Non Precision Winding

Non precision winding is one kind of packages which consists a single thread which is laid on the package. This is placed on an appreciable helix angle. For that the yarn layer gives more stability and cross one another.

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Types of Winding

The types of winding are given below.

According to density the winding are two types. These are,

1. Precision winding.

2. Non precision winding.

According to type of package the winding are five types. These are,

1. Cone winding package.

2. Pirn winding package.

3. Flange winding package.

4. Cheese winding package.

5. Cop winding package.

According to the build of the package the winding are three types. These are,

1. Parallel winding package.

2. Near parallel winding package.

3. Cross parallel winding package.

According to methods of drive the winding are two types. These are,

1. Positive or direct drive.

2. Negative or direct drive

According to the future of automation the winding are two types. These are,

1. Conventional winding.

2. Modern winding.

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Difference between Precision Winding and Non Precision Winding

The difference between Precision winding and Non Precision Winding are given below,

Precision Winding	Non Precision Winding
1. Number of coils remains constant from the first layer up to the full diameter of package.	1. Number of coils per traverse of yarn guide decrease with increase in package diameter.
2. No air gaps.	2. Air gaps are found here.
3. Winding angle is 90º or near 90º.	3. Winding angle is less than 80º.
4. Bobbin can be wound by one or more yarn.	4. Bobbin can be wound by only one yarn.
5. Less stable package.	5. More stable package.
6. Flanged bobbin is needed.	6. Flanged bobbin is not needed.
7. Yarn tension is relatively more at the time of winding.	7. Yarn tension is relatively less at the time of winding.
8. Yarn package density is more.	8. Yarn density is less in the package.
9. Yarn coil is arranged in the parallel or near parallel.	9. Yarn coil is arranged in traversal.
10. Yarn withdrawal from the package takes more time and it is relatively difficult.	10. Yarn withdrawal from the package takes less time and it is comparatively difficult.

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Difference between Melt, Dry and Wet spinning

The difference between melt spinning, dry spinning and wet spinning is given below:

Parameter	Melt spinning	Dry spinning	Wet spinning
1. Investment cost	Low	High	Low
2. Hazard	Non-toxic	Toxic	Toxic
3. Heat of spg	High	Very high	Low
4. Spinneret holes	2000	300-900	20000-75000
5. Spg speed	2500-3000ft/min	2500-3000ft/min	150-300ft/min
6. Productivity	High	High	Low
7. Solvent	Not required	Only volatile organic solvent	Beth organic & inorganic solvent can be use
8. Example	Polyester, Nylon-6	Cellulose, Acetate. PAN	Viscose rayon

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Washing Faults

Some washing faults are given below:

1. Color shade variation.

2. Crease marks.

3. After wash hole.

4. Very dark and very light.

5. Bleach spot.

6. Bottom hem and course edge destroy.

7. Running shading.

8. Over blasting/ low blasting.

9. Over grinding / low grinding.

10. Bad smell due to poor neutralization.

11. Poor hand feel.

12. To high hairiness.

13. Poor brightness.

14. High or low affect / abrasion on garments.

15. Spot on garments.

16. Out of range/ level of pH value of garments.

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Caustic Wash

Generally Caustic wash is done on printed garments, sulphur dye, reactive dye or direct dyed garments. Reasons required for caustic wash.

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Silicone Wash

Silicone wash can be applied on all types of fabrics such as Knit, Corduroy, Denim, Canvas, Twill etc. The following reasons are required for Silicone wash.

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Bleach Wash

In case of bleach wash, garments are normally dyed with direct or reactive dyes.

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Hard Water

The water which contains bi-carbonates, sulphates, chlorides etc is called Hard Water.

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Twill Weave

Twill weave is the second basic weave pattern used in fabric manufacturing technology. They can be constructed in a variety of ways. The main features of these weaves the distinguished from other types in the presence of pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.

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Difference between Warp Rib Weave and Weft Rib Weave

The difference between warp rib weave and weft rib weave are given below:

Warp Rib Weave	Weft Rib Weave
1. It produces rib or cord effect in the weft direction.	1. It produces rib or cord effect in the warp direction.
2. Fiber yarn used as warp and coarser as weft.	2. Finer yarn used as weft and coarser as warp.
3. The number of ends are more than the number of picks in the unit space.	3. The number of picks is more than the number of ends in unit space.
4. Warp yarn single yarn and weft yarn bundle yarn.	4. Weft yarn single yarn and warp yarn bundle yarn.
5. Two or more weft yarns are passed over or under a warp yarn.	5. Two or more warp yarn is passed over or under a weft.
6. The ends interlace with the picks.	6. The picks interlace with the ends.

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Basic Elements of a Woven Design

There are three basic elements in a woven design. They are:

1. Design.
2. Drafting plan.
3. Lifting plan.

Design: The design indicates the interlacement of warp and weft threads in the repeat of the design. It is made up of a number of squares which constitute the repeat size of a design. The vertical direction of the squares indicates the picks and the horizontal direction indicates the ends.

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Weave

A woven fabric is formed by the interlacement of two sets of threads, namely warp and weft threads. These threads are interlaced with one another according to the type of weave or design. The warp threads are those that run longitudinally along the length of the fabric and the weft threads are those that run transversely across the fabric. For the sake of convenience the warp threads are termed as ends and the weft as picks or fillings.

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