General Instructions for Final Inspection (Batching)

The general instructions for final inspection(Batching) are given below,

1. All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards mapping will be done on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard.

2. All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points made to insure proper grading.

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Ballon Theory

The rotation applied to departing yarn drawing at high speed of the yarn unwinding from a stationary spinning cop, the yarn is thrown by centrifugal force away from the cop axis and circumscribes in space of plane is called ballon. It is characterized by the height ‘h’ as shown in figure.

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Beating-Up

Beating up is the third and final primary motion in weaving; it performs driving the last pick of weft to the fell of the cloth.

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Basic Pant

Basic components of a basic pant:

1. West band
2. West band loop
3. Right front part
4. Left front part
5. Right back part
6. Left back part
7. Zipper fly
8. Crochet point

Sketch of Basic Pant:

Accessories& trimmings for a basic pant:

1. Pocketing
2. Fusible interlining
3. Zipper
4. Thread
5. Button
6. Label
7. Hang tag
8. Tag pin
9. Price ticket
10. Tissue paper
11. Poly bag
12. Ribbit

Machine required for making basic pant:

1. Plain stitch m/c
2. Over lock m/c
3. Bartak  m/c
4. Button hole m/c
5. Button attaching m/c

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Fabric Consumption of a Basic Woven Shirt

Measurement required:

1. Body length (HSP) = 75cm.
2. ½ Chest= 55cm.
3. Sleeve length= 65cm.
4. Arm hole (Straight) = 25cm.
5. Collar length= 41cm.
6. Collar width= 6cm.
7. Collar band length= 32cm.
8. Collar band width= 2cm.
9. Pocket length= 14cm.
10. Pocket width= 12cm.
11. Extra yoke length= 48cm.
12. Extra yoke height= 11.5cm.
13. Fabric width= 56inch.
14. Wastage= 5%.

Body Section:

A= (Body length + Allowance) × (½ chest + Allowance) × 2

   = (75+5) × (55+6) × 2 sq.cm.

   = 9760 sq.cm.

Sleeve Section:

B= (Sleeve length + Allowance) × (Arm hole + Allowance) ×2×2

   = (65+4) × (25+) ×4 sq.cm.

   =8280 sq.cm.

Collar Section:

C= (Collar length+ Allowance) × (Collar width+ Allowance) ×2

   = (41+4) × (6+2) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 720 sq.cm.

Collar Band Section:

D= (Collar band length+ Allowance) × (Collar band width+ Allowance) ×2

   = (32+3) × (2+2) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 280 sq.cm.

Pocket Section:

E= (Pocket length+ Allowance) × (Pocket width+ Allowance)

   = (14+2) ×(12+1) sq.cm.

   = 208 sq.cm.

Extra Yoke Section:

F= (Yoke length+ Allowance) ×( Yoke height+ Allowance) ×2

   = (48+4) × (11.5+3) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 108 sq.cm.

Total Fabric Consumption = A+B+C+D+E+F

     = 9760+8280+720+280+208+1508

     = 20756 sq.cm.

Now divided this amount by (2.54)2, then we will get 3217.18 sq.inch.

So, Total Fabric Required = (3217.18/56) inch.

                                           = (57.45/36) yards.

                                           = 1.6yards.

So, Fabric Consumption per dozen= 1.6× 12 +5% OLF

                                                        = (19.2+ 0.96) Yards.

                                                        = 20.16 yards.

Fabric Price per Yards is = $2.5

So, Fabric Cost = $2.5× 20.16

                          = $ 50.4

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Thread Consumption of Basic Denim Pant

In textile industry there are different types of sewing machines. Each machine never needs fixed amount thread to stitch. Different types of stitch need different amount of thread. Explain below,

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Thread Consumption of Basic Woven Shirt

In textile industry there are different types of sewing machines. Each machine never needs fixed amount thread to stitch. Different types of stitch need different amount of thread. Explain below,

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Faults & Damages of Bleaching

Faults of Bleaching: The faults of bleaching are given below,

1. Harsh Feeling: As stabilizer if we use sodium silicate then this silicate is precipitate on the fabric and that’s why fabric become harsh.
2. Chloramines Reaction: Chloramine reaction will occur in hypochlorite bleaching. So antichlor treatment is done. For that the permanency of whiteness is damaged and fabric becomes yellowish.
3. Uneven Bleaching:
1. For all types of machine faults.
2. Faults in bleaching agent.
3. In efficient dosing.
4. Inadequate raw materials.
4. Alkalinity may remain: To destroy alkalinity we used acetic acid. Dye hydrolysis and dye wastage causes of alkalinity and also reduced the fastness.
5. Residual peroxide causes uneven dyeing. Dye wastage and shade variation.
6. Iron stain.

Damages of Bleaching: A number of varieties of product easily oxidized by cellulose which is known as oxy-cellulose. Now a days scouring and bleaching is a combination process. Loss of strength is the causes of formation of oxy-cellulose. There are three point at which oxidizing agent can attack the glucose molecule.

Estimation of Damage:

1. Physically: By testing strength before and after bleaching.
2. Chemically: There are several methods. These are,
1. Fluidity test.
2. Copper number test.
3. Methylene blue test.

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Basic Dye

Basic dye mainly applied in acrylic fibers. Basic dyes are water soluble cationic dyes. Basic dye also applied to some wool or silk. In certain nylon and protein fibers the basic dyes is also applied. Basic dyes are typically cationic or positively charged when it’s at the chemical level. Basic dyes are also known as cationic dyes.

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Basic Shirt

Component of a Basic Shirt:

1)    Collar.

2)    Collar band or collar stand.

3)    Upper yoke.

4)    Lower yoke.

5)    Left front part.

6)    Right front part.

7)    Sleeve.                

a)     R-Sleeve

b)    L-Sleeve

8)    Cuff.                   

9)    Placket.                

a)     Upper placket.

b)    Lower Placket.

10)           Back part.

11)           Pocket.                       

12)           Facing.                        

a)     Upper facing                

b)    Lower facing                          

Sketch of a Basic Shirt

Accessories and trimmings of a Basic Shirt:

1)    Sewing Thread.

2)    Button.                 

3)    Label                     

a.     Care label

b.     Size label

c.      Main label

4)    Interlining.

5)    Motif.

6)    Neck board

7)    Back board.

8)    Hang tag.

9)    Price ticket.

10)     Tag pin

11)     Tissue Paper.

12)     Polly bag.

Machine required for making shirt: Mainly two machines are used for basic shirt making. These are:

a.     Over lock m/c

b.     Plain stitch m/c

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Boiler

A boiler is also known as steam generator made of steel which is usually a closed vessel. The main function of boiler is to transfer the heat which is produced by the combustion of fuel to water and ultimately to generate steam.

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Shirley Automatic Size Box

To maintain constant concentration the ordinary size box can’t do it. That’s why the Shirley automatic size box has been introduced with us.

Purpose of Shirley Automatic size box: In the size box Shirley automatic size box maintain constant level of size solution and also maintain constant concentration per volume.

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Balloon size

Balloon size depends on:

1. Yarn count: During the operation of unwinding the centrifugal force is acted. During winding the stronger centrifugal forces is produced if the yarn is coarse. Here is formed the larges balloon size.

2. Yarn winding/unwinding rate: If the winding/unwinding speed is higher, then there must are higher centrifugal forces will be produced.

3. Size of the package: The height of the balloon will be larger if the package is larger of the lift.

4. Lift of the package: There larger balloon will be formed if the package is higher of the lift.

5. Position of the guide: If distance is larger between yarn guide and yarn package then there must be formed larger balloon.

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Batch Plan

Production planning for dyeing is called Batch Plan. According to the batch number, color, width, style and construction the batch plan is made. For easy understand, this section gives some ‘T’ cards. ‘T’ cards are serialized according to the priority of delivery. The batches and ‘T’ cards are also serialized as to dye light shade at first and lastly the dark shades, since faulty shade and can be converted to dark color later.

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Bottom closed shed

This kind of shed is produced by giving motion only to threads that are to form the upper line. Under this condition the warp is level on the bottom line. Hence in order to form a top shed, it is necessary to move some threads through a space equal to twice the depth of shed, once up & once down, before a fresh section is made. A shed of this kind is known as a stationary bottom with a rising & falling top.

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Bleach Wash

In case of bleach wash, garments are normally dyed with direct or reactive dyes.

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Breaking Extension

The breaking extension is the extension of the specimen at the breaking point. This expressed in percentage.

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Basic dye and its application

Properties:

1. Basic dyes are soluble in alcohol or methyl sprit but do not soluble in water.
2. Basic dyes are suitable for brilliant shade.
3. Fastness properties are average to good.
4. Applied usually jute, cotton and acrylic fibers.
5. No affinity to cotton fibers.
6. Direct affinity to jute fiber and easily to dye.
7. Washing fastness is moderate to good.

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Dyeing of cotton with basic dye

Basic dyes are applied to cotton or cellulosic fiber, because cellulosic fibers have no affinity to basic dye.

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Bleaching

A process by which the natural colors of textile fiber are removed to achieve whiteness for development of true color is known as bleaching. This is the last pretreatment process of textile goods.

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